Your Humane Society (or rescue) Dog
 |  |
Think about his recent experiences. What do we know about your dog?
Chances are he has been through a lot in the weeks or months prior to
your adopting him. Was he a stray who spent time in an impound facility?
Was he surrendered by owners who didn’t have time for him? Was he
confiscated due to improper care? Whatever the situation, there has
been a lot of change and confusion in his life lately.
When you take a new "previously owned" dog home, you need to give
him time to settle in and adjust. You will probably not see this dog’s true
personality for a week or two as he begins to settle in and incorporate
himself into your "pack." Make sure he gets lots of attention from you, but
also give him time to be by himself and begin to get accustomed to his
new surroundings. A crate is a wonderful tool for helping him settle in and
for allowing you to control his access to possible trouble in your home
while you learn more about him. Dogs are naturally den animals, and a
crate will become their "safe haven" if used correctly. A crate should not
be used as punishment or "doggie jail." A crate is perfect for a few hours
while you are shopping or going to the zoo with the family, as well as for
nighttime sleeping. An entire workday is a bit long for crating, so look for
an optional way to keep your dog safe and out of trouble while you are at
work. A laundry room or kitchen, which you can "dog-proof" are good
choices. Be sure he has access to water and interesting toys. Please
understand that some housebreaking lapses are common for a dog in a
new environment, even one that is truly housebroken. Be patient.
Chances are he has been through a lot in the weeks or months prior to
your adopting him. Was he a stray who spent time in an impound facility?
Was he surrendered by owners who didn’t have time for him? Was he
confiscated due to improper care? Whatever the situation, there has
been a lot of change and confusion in his life lately.
When you take a new "previously owned" dog home, you need to give
him time to settle in and adjust. You will probably not see this dog’s true
personality for a week or two as he begins to settle in and incorporate
himself into your "pack." Make sure he gets lots of attention from you, but
also give him time to be by himself and begin to get accustomed to his
new surroundings. A crate is a wonderful tool for helping him settle in and
for allowing you to control his access to possible trouble in your home
while you learn more about him. Dogs are naturally den animals, and a
crate will become their "safe haven" if used correctly. A crate should not
be used as punishment or "doggie jail." A crate is perfect for a few hours
while you are shopping or going to the zoo with the family, as well as for
nighttime sleeping. An entire workday is a bit long for crating, so look for
an optional way to keep your dog safe and out of trouble while you are at
work. A laundry room or kitchen, which you can "dog-proof" are good
choices. Be sure he has access to water and interesting toys. Please
understand that some housebreaking lapses are common for a dog in a
new environment, even one that is truly housebroken. Be patient.
Leaving a dog tied outdoors or in a kennel is usually not a good idea. These dogs can become nuisance
barkers, diggers, escape artists, etc. They are also vulnerable to theft or abuse or even poisoning. In
addition, if it turns out your dog is terrified of storms, fireworks, sirens or other unpredictable situations, he
could seriously injure himself trying to "get away" from the danger. Leaving a dog outside all day while you
are at work is strongly discouraged, but if you must do so, be sure he has access to shade/shelter, that he
can not tangle or hang himself with a chain or cable, that he is out of sight from the roads or sidewalks, and
that he has an unspillable fresh water supply.
Dogs feel comfortable with a schedule, so try to reduce your new dog’s stress by forming a regular
schedule right away. Feeding times, play times, potty times, crate time should all happen in an order he
can anticipate. Do not allow children to overwhelm your dog with attention, though this is often difficult
since they are so excited to have this wonderful new addition to the family. But teaching children to respect
the dog’s space and privacy now will head off possibly tragic results later. Also, don’t invite all your
neighbors and relatives and all the kids’ friends over to "meet" the new dog during the first few days. A
new home is stressful enough, without swarms of new people constantly overwhelming him.
Take your dog to the vet within a few days of adopting him. While an animal might be showing no signs
of illness while in foster care, stress can make him vulnerable to things which he might otherwise be able to
fight off. Be sure any needed vaccinations are updated, and get a thorough physical. Catching a condition
early can save a lot of serious problems later.
Introduction to other pets can be tricky. If possible, it is a good idea for the new dog and any resident
dogs to meet for the first time on "neutral ground." This might be a park or a friend’s yard. The first
meeting should be with both dogs on leash. Once home, keep the dogs separated as much as possible the
first day or two, with periods of time together with close supervision, possibly with one dog on a trailing
leash so you can grab it and gain control if necessary. Don’t "play favorites" or coddle either dog.
Dogs are pack animals, and they need to know who is "top dog." That should, without a doubt, be you,
in your role as pack leader. But the dogs also need to know where they rank in relation to each other.
There is likely to be some posturing and possibly even confrontation between them in the first days or
weeks, but that is normal. Typically, a confrontation or scuffle between dogs looks and sounds much worse
than it is, and some behaviorists will even tell you to let them "sort it out" for themselves, because once
they know who is who, they will settle into contented pack life. However, it is awfully hard to sit and watch
your dogs fight and possibly cause some injury to each other. The best bet is to supervise closely and try
to diffuse a situation before it escalates to a fight. Break eye contact between the dogs, distract them with
toys or activity. But on some level they do have to "sort it out," because the pack order must be clear to
them before they can relax. Once you see who outranks whom, accept their decision. Don’t confuse them
by trying to "help" the lower ranked dog, giving it special attention or extra treats. That can just cause that
dog to feel in a position to challenge the other dog for dominance, or make the dominant dog feel it needs
to "remind the other dog who’s boss."
Cats in the home should also be considered. Keep the dog away from the cat as much as possible at first.
Again, introductions should occur with the dog on leash. Be sure the cat has a way to "get away," either
into a room the dog can’t access, to the top of furniture, etc. Be aware that dogs frequently will "snack" out
of kitty litter boxes, so put that in an area the dog cannot access. Besides being a rather unpleasant habit
for the owners to observe, some reports indicate that "clumping" cat litter might be a risk for forming
intestinal obstructions in dogs that ingest it along with the cat waste.
A tired dog is a well-behaved dog. (Read that sentence again! It is that important!) If a dog begins
chewing up the house, digging canyons in the yard, or barking like an idiot, chances are good that he is
bored and under-stimulated. Dogs need varying amounts of exercise, but generally a stroll through the
neighborhood is not enough for a young, healthy dog, just as it wouldn’t be for a four-year-old child. Most
dogs need periods of vigorous play each day. This might include "fetch" or other running games. Just being
put out in the yard is not exercise. Most dogs will walk around a bit, probably relieve themselves, check the
view from the fence, then settle under a nice tree and wait for you to bring him in. So get out there and
play with him, even if it is just throwing a tennis ball from your chair on the deck. Mental stimulation is also
very good, such as teaching tricks or doing obedience exercises, and the interaction is critical in forming
your bond with your new dog. In fact, an obedience class is strongly encouraged for you and your new
dog. It will teach you to communicate better, how to make your expectations clear, how to correct
appropriately, and reinforce your pack leadership.... plus it is a lot of fun!
Indoors, toys are very important. Dogs need to chew, and they need some activity to keep them occupied
while you are away. Kong toys with peanut butter smeared inside or a dog biscuit wedged in it,
appropriately sized raw beef shanks with the marrow inside, or Nylabones can provide a dog with a
"project" for the day. Don’t leave rawhides or squeaky toys out for the dog to play with unsupervised, or
any other toy that might "chunk" or come apart, forming a choking hazard. It will take time to learn your
dog’s chewing habits, and what toys he can safely have.
Dogs and children can be a wonderful relationship, but it can also be very tragic. To help prevent
incidents that might cause injury to either the dog or the child, it is important to NEVER leave ANY dog alone
with a preschool child. EVER. Dogs will rarely accept prepubescent children (say, under 12 or 13 or so) as
authority figures, and a child trying to discipline a dog as he has seen you do can result in tragedy. Also,
children behave in ways that dogs consider very rude. They approach dogs straight on from the front and
they make a lot of eye contact. They hug dogs around the neck (yes, this is rude to a dog), they pet by
reaching directly over the head, they might run away squealing which could stimulate a "prey" response in
a dog. They fall down and cry which might also stimulate a prey response, and they often do inappropriate
things like startle a sleeping dog, poke eyes and ears, grab feet or pull tails. They don’t always know to
obey a dog’s "warning signs" like a stiff posture, walking away or growling. A dog’s only real defense is to
bite, and if he feels he is given no choice, that is what he will do. It won’t be the dog’s fault, but he will be the
one who must pay the price. There is no such thing as a dog that will not bite. If you believe there is,
you are putting the child and the dog at risk.
Dogs from uncertain backgrounds require a little extra observation and understanding. Watch and see
how he responds to various situations. Often you will note such things as a dog shying away from a raised
hand, being afraid of feet or boots, going into a panic over certain sounds, or getting very upset if family
members argue. If a dog was abused or traumatized by any of these things, it will take time and patience
to teach him to trust again, and to feel secure. You also need to learn if he is protective (to the point of
aggression?) of particular treats, toys or other objects. While this behavior should not be accepted, and
the dog needs to be trained out of it, being cautious and observant can prevent a nasty incident during the
time you are getting to know your dog.
No dog should be allowed to run at large for any reason. The risks to him are great, and the fact that you
choose to be a dog owner does not give you the right to impose his presence on other members of the
community who choose not to have dogs in or around their homes. For safety, a new canine family member
must be treated as if it would run away until you know absolutely, positively for certain that he will not
leave your property. Again, this is where obedience class can help by teaching you to train your dog to
reliably come when called. Take your new dog outside on leash if you do not have a fence (and even if you
do, if there is a possibility that he might be a fence-jumper). You can also use a 26-foot Flexi Leash or a 50-
foot training line to let him get some exercise while still maintaining control. You might also look for places
in your neighborhoods that have fenced areas he can enjoy. This might be an off-leash dog park, a fenced
basketball or tennis court, an outdoor hockey rink in summer, etc. In any case, be sure to get your dog an
ID tag as soon as possible after you adopt him! The early days of his adoption are the days in which he is
most likely to roam, and ID tags greatly increase your chances of getting him back.
If the dog turns out to be a "runner," it is your responsibility to find a way to contain him on your property.
This might include a roomy outdoor kennel for the periods of time you are unable to personally supervise
him outdoors (but NOT for all-day containment while you are at work), fencing all or part of your yard, a
cable-trolley tie out (also for brief unsupervised periods), or in some cases an "invisible fence." The thing to
remember about invisible fences is that they do not work for all dogs, and the training you put into it is
critical. The best systems are those in which a company representative comes out and instructs you on the
training method, and then you work slowly with the dog, teaching him the boundaries. But some dogs have
high prey drives or are not phased by the relatively mild jolt that the fence provides. And if a dog sees a
squirrel or kid on a bike and runs through the shock, he is then unable to return to the yard. Also, an
invisible fence does not protect him from strange dogs entering the yard, doesn’t keep children from
entering "his territory" to pet him, and in many jurisdictions does not satisfy the legal requirement to
"contain" your dog. For many dogs, an invisible fence is a good choice for keeping a dog home. For others
it is worse than useless.
If problems arise, you should consult a qualified obedience instructor, behaviorist and/or veterinarian,
depending on the nature of the problem. Remember that it is much, much easier to prevent problems from
the start than to try to fix them later. Give your dog plenty of attention, guidance, training and love, and
you will likely have a long, happy life together.
Recommended reading:
Second-Hand Dog by Carol Lea Benjamin, Howell Book House, copyright
1988.
Choosing & Caring for a Shelter Dog: A Complete Guide to Help You Rescue
and Rehome a Dog, by Bob Christiansen, Canine Learning Center, copyright
1996.
The Adoption Option: Choosing & Raising the Shelter Dog For You, by
Eliza Rubenstein, Howell Book House, copyright 1996.
Dog Adoption: A Guide to Choosing the Perfect "Preowned" Dog from
Breeders, Dog Tracks, Purebred Rescue & Shelters, by Joan Hustace Walker, ICS
Books, copyright 1996.
Save That Dog! by Liz Palika, Howell Book House, copyright 1997.
Copyrighted: 2000 Lori Whitwam
barkers, diggers, escape artists, etc. They are also vulnerable to theft or abuse or even poisoning. In
addition, if it turns out your dog is terrified of storms, fireworks, sirens or other unpredictable situations, he
could seriously injure himself trying to "get away" from the danger. Leaving a dog outside all day while you
are at work is strongly discouraged, but if you must do so, be sure he has access to shade/shelter, that he
can not tangle or hang himself with a chain or cable, that he is out of sight from the roads or sidewalks, and
that he has an unspillable fresh water supply.
Dogs feel comfortable with a schedule, so try to reduce your new dog’s stress by forming a regular
schedule right away. Feeding times, play times, potty times, crate time should all happen in an order he
can anticipate. Do not allow children to overwhelm your dog with attention, though this is often difficult
since they are so excited to have this wonderful new addition to the family. But teaching children to respect
the dog’s space and privacy now will head off possibly tragic results later. Also, don’t invite all your
neighbors and relatives and all the kids’ friends over to "meet" the new dog during the first few days. A
new home is stressful enough, without swarms of new people constantly overwhelming him.
Take your dog to the vet within a few days of adopting him. While an animal might be showing no signs
of illness while in foster care, stress can make him vulnerable to things which he might otherwise be able to
fight off. Be sure any needed vaccinations are updated, and get a thorough physical. Catching a condition
early can save a lot of serious problems later.
Introduction to other pets can be tricky. If possible, it is a good idea for the new dog and any resident
dogs to meet for the first time on "neutral ground." This might be a park or a friend’s yard. The first
meeting should be with both dogs on leash. Once home, keep the dogs separated as much as possible the
first day or two, with periods of time together with close supervision, possibly with one dog on a trailing
leash so you can grab it and gain control if necessary. Don’t "play favorites" or coddle either dog.
Dogs are pack animals, and they need to know who is "top dog." That should, without a doubt, be you,
in your role as pack leader. But the dogs also need to know where they rank in relation to each other.
There is likely to be some posturing and possibly even confrontation between them in the first days or
weeks, but that is normal. Typically, a confrontation or scuffle between dogs looks and sounds much worse
than it is, and some behaviorists will even tell you to let them "sort it out" for themselves, because once
they know who is who, they will settle into contented pack life. However, it is awfully hard to sit and watch
your dogs fight and possibly cause some injury to each other. The best bet is to supervise closely and try
to diffuse a situation before it escalates to a fight. Break eye contact between the dogs, distract them with
toys or activity. But on some level they do have to "sort it out," because the pack order must be clear to
them before they can relax. Once you see who outranks whom, accept their decision. Don’t confuse them
by trying to "help" the lower ranked dog, giving it special attention or extra treats. That can just cause that
dog to feel in a position to challenge the other dog for dominance, or make the dominant dog feel it needs
to "remind the other dog who’s boss."
Cats in the home should also be considered. Keep the dog away from the cat as much as possible at first.
Again, introductions should occur with the dog on leash. Be sure the cat has a way to "get away," either
into a room the dog can’t access, to the top of furniture, etc. Be aware that dogs frequently will "snack" out
of kitty litter boxes, so put that in an area the dog cannot access. Besides being a rather unpleasant habit
for the owners to observe, some reports indicate that "clumping" cat litter might be a risk for forming
intestinal obstructions in dogs that ingest it along with the cat waste.
A tired dog is a well-behaved dog. (Read that sentence again! It is that important!) If a dog begins
chewing up the house, digging canyons in the yard, or barking like an idiot, chances are good that he is
bored and under-stimulated. Dogs need varying amounts of exercise, but generally a stroll through the
neighborhood is not enough for a young, healthy dog, just as it wouldn’t be for a four-year-old child. Most
dogs need periods of vigorous play each day. This might include "fetch" or other running games. Just being
put out in the yard is not exercise. Most dogs will walk around a bit, probably relieve themselves, check the
view from the fence, then settle under a nice tree and wait for you to bring him in. So get out there and
play with him, even if it is just throwing a tennis ball from your chair on the deck. Mental stimulation is also
very good, such as teaching tricks or doing obedience exercises, and the interaction is critical in forming
your bond with your new dog. In fact, an obedience class is strongly encouraged for you and your new
dog. It will teach you to communicate better, how to make your expectations clear, how to correct
appropriately, and reinforce your pack leadership.... plus it is a lot of fun!
Indoors, toys are very important. Dogs need to chew, and they need some activity to keep them occupied
while you are away. Kong toys with peanut butter smeared inside or a dog biscuit wedged in it,
appropriately sized raw beef shanks with the marrow inside, or Nylabones can provide a dog with a
"project" for the day. Don’t leave rawhides or squeaky toys out for the dog to play with unsupervised, or
any other toy that might "chunk" or come apart, forming a choking hazard. It will take time to learn your
dog’s chewing habits, and what toys he can safely have.
Dogs and children can be a wonderful relationship, but it can also be very tragic. To help prevent
incidents that might cause injury to either the dog or the child, it is important to NEVER leave ANY dog alone
with a preschool child. EVER. Dogs will rarely accept prepubescent children (say, under 12 or 13 or so) as
authority figures, and a child trying to discipline a dog as he has seen you do can result in tragedy. Also,
children behave in ways that dogs consider very rude. They approach dogs straight on from the front and
they make a lot of eye contact. They hug dogs around the neck (yes, this is rude to a dog), they pet by
reaching directly over the head, they might run away squealing which could stimulate a "prey" response in
a dog. They fall down and cry which might also stimulate a prey response, and they often do inappropriate
things like startle a sleeping dog, poke eyes and ears, grab feet or pull tails. They don’t always know to
obey a dog’s "warning signs" like a stiff posture, walking away or growling. A dog’s only real defense is to
bite, and if he feels he is given no choice, that is what he will do. It won’t be the dog’s fault, but he will be the
one who must pay the price. There is no such thing as a dog that will not bite. If you believe there is,
you are putting the child and the dog at risk.
Dogs from uncertain backgrounds require a little extra observation and understanding. Watch and see
how he responds to various situations. Often you will note such things as a dog shying away from a raised
hand, being afraid of feet or boots, going into a panic over certain sounds, or getting very upset if family
members argue. If a dog was abused or traumatized by any of these things, it will take time and patience
to teach him to trust again, and to feel secure. You also need to learn if he is protective (to the point of
aggression?) of particular treats, toys or other objects. While this behavior should not be accepted, and
the dog needs to be trained out of it, being cautious and observant can prevent a nasty incident during the
time you are getting to know your dog.
No dog should be allowed to run at large for any reason. The risks to him are great, and the fact that you
choose to be a dog owner does not give you the right to impose his presence on other members of the
community who choose not to have dogs in or around their homes. For safety, a new canine family member
must be treated as if it would run away until you know absolutely, positively for certain that he will not
leave your property. Again, this is where obedience class can help by teaching you to train your dog to
reliably come when called. Take your new dog outside on leash if you do not have a fence (and even if you
do, if there is a possibility that he might be a fence-jumper). You can also use a 26-foot Flexi Leash or a 50-
foot training line to let him get some exercise while still maintaining control. You might also look for places
in your neighborhoods that have fenced areas he can enjoy. This might be an off-leash dog park, a fenced
basketball or tennis court, an outdoor hockey rink in summer, etc. In any case, be sure to get your dog an
ID tag as soon as possible after you adopt him! The early days of his adoption are the days in which he is
most likely to roam, and ID tags greatly increase your chances of getting him back.
If the dog turns out to be a "runner," it is your responsibility to find a way to contain him on your property.
This might include a roomy outdoor kennel for the periods of time you are unable to personally supervise
him outdoors (but NOT for all-day containment while you are at work), fencing all or part of your yard, a
cable-trolley tie out (also for brief unsupervised periods), or in some cases an "invisible fence." The thing to
remember about invisible fences is that they do not work for all dogs, and the training you put into it is
critical. The best systems are those in which a company representative comes out and instructs you on the
training method, and then you work slowly with the dog, teaching him the boundaries. But some dogs have
high prey drives or are not phased by the relatively mild jolt that the fence provides. And if a dog sees a
squirrel or kid on a bike and runs through the shock, he is then unable to return to the yard. Also, an
invisible fence does not protect him from strange dogs entering the yard, doesn’t keep children from
entering "his territory" to pet him, and in many jurisdictions does not satisfy the legal requirement to
"contain" your dog. For many dogs, an invisible fence is a good choice for keeping a dog home. For others
it is worse than useless.
If problems arise, you should consult a qualified obedience instructor, behaviorist and/or veterinarian,
depending on the nature of the problem. Remember that it is much, much easier to prevent problems from
the start than to try to fix them later. Give your dog plenty of attention, guidance, training and love, and
you will likely have a long, happy life together.
Recommended reading:
Second-Hand Dog by Carol Lea Benjamin, Howell Book House, copyright
1988.
Choosing & Caring for a Shelter Dog: A Complete Guide to Help You Rescue
and Rehome a Dog, by Bob Christiansen, Canine Learning Center, copyright
1996.
The Adoption Option: Choosing & Raising the Shelter Dog For You, by
Eliza Rubenstein, Howell Book House, copyright 1996.
Dog Adoption: A Guide to Choosing the Perfect "Preowned" Dog from
Breeders, Dog Tracks, Purebred Rescue & Shelters, by Joan Hustace Walker, ICS
Books, copyright 1996.
Save That Dog! by Liz Palika, Howell Book House, copyright 1997.
Copyrighted: 2000 Lori Whitwam