Hedgehog Care
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Housing: Hedgehogs are solitary in the wild. In captivity they are usually maintained in individual cages.
Some fanciers successfully keep groups of females with or without a single male, or even groups of males, but
this can lead to disproportionate feeding and injuries from fighting. Although young animals that are raised
together may tolerate each other as adults, hedgehogs typically become more aggressive toward cagemates
when they reach sexual maturity. Healthy hedgehogs are very active, and as large a cage as possible should
be provided. 2 X 3 feet are minimal floor dimensions. Hedgehogs are able to climb and escape through small
holes, so the cage must be secure and lidded. Glass tanks are suitable but are heavy when they are
sufficiently large. Hedgehog droppings can be soft and messy, making wood cages difficult to keep clean.
Plastic-bottomed cages with wire walls are suitable, provided that the wire spacing is sufficiently close (1-inch
square is acceptable). Widely spaced wires can lead to limb entrapment or death if the hedgehog puts its head
between the wires and becomes ensnared by its spines. A hiding place, which may be a cardboard or wooded
box, flowerpot, cloth bag, or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) tube, is an essential furnishing. The cage substrate should
be soft and absorbent and will require frequent changing. Aspen or pine shavings work well, as do hay and
recycled newspaper bedding. Wire, cedar, corncob, and dusty or scented substrates are not recommended.
Any cloth in the cage should have a tight weave that will not allow nails to become entrapped.
Hedgehogs should be maintained at ambient temperatures between 72 and 90 F. 75-85 F is optimal. African
hedgehogs may go into torpor if they are too cool or too warm. A heating pad placed under part of the
enclosure or a ceramic reptile heater may be used. Low humidity (less than 40%) is preferred. Hedgehogs
avoid bright light. However, a day cycle of 10 to 14 hours of mild light should be provided. Hedgehog
droppings are relatively soft and, depending on diet, can be quite messy. Although some hedgehogs use a
litter tray, other hedgehogs deposit their droppings at random. Placing all of the droppings in the litter tray on
a daily basis may facilitate litter training. Other litter training tips include providing a cardboard enclosure over
the tray, placing the animal in the tray after feeding, placing another hedgehog’s feces in the tray, and placing
the tray where the animal seems most inclined to eliminate. Natural plant litters used for cats make the best
litter substrate. Clay, clumping-type litter, or sand may stick to the animal and should not be used. Many
hedgehogs defecate in their hide boxes and exercise wheels and subsequently walk in their feces, so daily spot
cleaning of the cage is often necessary. Exercise wheels are highly recommended. The wheel needs to have a
solid or fine plastic mesh for hedgehogs to run on because their legs tend to become entrapped by traditional
wire rodent wheels. Hedgehogs should be let out into a large area on a daily basis for exercise. Cardboard
tubes, stray, safe climbing structures, swimming tubs, and other toys provide interest. Dirty hedgehogs may be
bathed with the use of a mild pet shampoo and a soft-bristle vegetable brush.
Some fanciers successfully keep groups of females with or without a single male, or even groups of males, but
this can lead to disproportionate feeding and injuries from fighting. Although young animals that are raised
together may tolerate each other as adults, hedgehogs typically become more aggressive toward cagemates
when they reach sexual maturity. Healthy hedgehogs are very active, and as large a cage as possible should
be provided. 2 X 3 feet are minimal floor dimensions. Hedgehogs are able to climb and escape through small
holes, so the cage must be secure and lidded. Glass tanks are suitable but are heavy when they are
sufficiently large. Hedgehog droppings can be soft and messy, making wood cages difficult to keep clean.
Plastic-bottomed cages with wire walls are suitable, provided that the wire spacing is sufficiently close (1-inch
square is acceptable). Widely spaced wires can lead to limb entrapment or death if the hedgehog puts its head
between the wires and becomes ensnared by its spines. A hiding place, which may be a cardboard or wooded
box, flowerpot, cloth bag, or polyvinyl chloride (PVC) tube, is an essential furnishing. The cage substrate should
be soft and absorbent and will require frequent changing. Aspen or pine shavings work well, as do hay and
recycled newspaper bedding. Wire, cedar, corncob, and dusty or scented substrates are not recommended.
Any cloth in the cage should have a tight weave that will not allow nails to become entrapped.
Hedgehogs should be maintained at ambient temperatures between 72 and 90 F. 75-85 F is optimal. African
hedgehogs may go into torpor if they are too cool or too warm. A heating pad placed under part of the
enclosure or a ceramic reptile heater may be used. Low humidity (less than 40%) is preferred. Hedgehogs
avoid bright light. However, a day cycle of 10 to 14 hours of mild light should be provided. Hedgehog
droppings are relatively soft and, depending on diet, can be quite messy. Although some hedgehogs use a
litter tray, other hedgehogs deposit their droppings at random. Placing all of the droppings in the litter tray on
a daily basis may facilitate litter training. Other litter training tips include providing a cardboard enclosure over
the tray, placing the animal in the tray after feeding, placing another hedgehog’s feces in the tray, and placing
the tray where the animal seems most inclined to eliminate. Natural plant litters used for cats make the best
litter substrate. Clay, clumping-type litter, or sand may stick to the animal and should not be used. Many
hedgehogs defecate in their hide boxes and exercise wheels and subsequently walk in their feces, so daily spot
cleaning of the cage is often necessary. Exercise wheels are highly recommended. The wheel needs to have a
solid or fine plastic mesh for hedgehogs to run on because their legs tend to become entrapped by traditional
wire rodent wheels. Hedgehogs should be let out into a large area on a daily basis for exercise. Cardboard
tubes, stray, safe climbing structures, swimming tubs, and other toys provide interest. Dirty hedgehogs may be
bathed with the use of a mild pet shampoo and a soft-bristle vegetable brush.
Diet: Wild African hedgehogs feed on a diversity of invertebrate prey as well as plant materials and
occasionally vertebrate prey. Although many of the natural food items are known, the nutritional contents of
invertebrates vary tremendously. This makes it very difficult to deduce nutrient requirements based on the wild
diet. Insectivorous mammals are traditionally fed diets that are 30% to 50% protein and 10% to 20% fat (dry
matter basis). Hedgehogs seem to require a higher level of dietary fiber than carnivores do. This may be
related to the large quantity of insect exoskeletons that make up the natural diet.
The bulk of the captive diet should consist of commercially prepared hedgehog food. Scientific studies
regarding hedgehog nutritional needs are lacking. However, commercial diets appear to be the most balanced
staple that a pet owner can offer. If hedgehog food is not used, premium food for less active cats should form
the basis of the diet. Ferret food is high in fat and is not recommended. With many individuals, food must be
rationed to prevent obesity. Depending on the animal’s weight and activity, 1 to 2 tablespoons of the main diet
is typically fed daily. Growing animals and reproductively active females may be fed the usual diet ad libitum,
and calcium-rich foods are recommended.
In addition to the main diet, approximately 1 to 2 teaspoons of varied moist foods (e.g., canned cat or dog
food, cooked meat or egg, or low-fat cottage cheese) and about one-half teaspoon of fruit (e.g., banana,
grape, apple, pear, berries) or vegetables (e.g., beans, cooked carrots, squash, peas, tomatoes, leafy greens)
should also be provided daily. Acceptable treats include mealworms, earthworms, waxworms, crickets, and cat
treats. These may be hidden in the bedding to promote foraging activity. Hedgehogs should not be fed raw
meat or eggs, which may harbor Salmonella. Milk, although relished by many hedgehogs, can cause diarrhea.
Nuts, seeds, and large items or hard foods such as raw carrots can become lodged in the roof of the mouth and
should be avoided. The need for vitamin or mineral supplementation, if any, is not known, but supplementation
does not appear to be necessary for animals fed a commercial diet. Moist or perishable foods should be offered
in the evenings. Hedgehogs may be slow to accept novel foods, and any diet changes must be made with
care. Fresh water should be available at all times. Most, but not all, hedgehogs can learn to drink from water
bottles.
Breeding: Although pet hedgehogs may become sexually mature at 2 months, females should be at least six
months of age before breeding. There is anecdotal evidence that female hedgehogs may undergo fusion of the
pelvic symphysis if not bred by 18 months of age. Dystocia may occur if an older female is bred for the first
time. Pregnancy is most easily determined by weighing the female every few days. A gain of 50 g or more
within 2 to 3 weeks of being placed with a male is suggestive of pregnancy. At 30 days, a general swelling of
the abdomen or mammary enlargement may be detected. Infanticide, usually followed by cannibalism of the
young, can occur. Novice hedgehog breeders should give the female strict privacy from other hedgehogs and
humans from about 5 days before delivery through 5 to 14 days after delivery. Females that are conditioned to
frequent handling are les likely to desert or kill their young in response to human contact. Male hedgehogs
must not be allowed near the neonates because cannibalism often results.
Neonatal Care: Normal pups (or “hoglets”) stay close to their dam and littermates when resting. In cases of
lactation failure or abandonment by the female, fostering of the pups to another dam with similarly aged pups
is usually successful. If a surrogate dam is unavailable, a milk replacer may be fed through a dropper, feeding
tube, or narrow-tipped syringe. Based on the composition of European hedgehog milk, a canine milk replacer
with added lactace (Lactaid, for example) seems to be the most logical formula. Hand-rearing of hedgehogs is
often associated with high mortality. Neonates should be fed as much as they will consume every 2 to 4 hours
for about three weeks. The ambient temperature should be maintained at 90 to 95 F (32-35 C) for the first few
weeks. Neonates should gain approximately 1 to 2 grams per day during the first week, 3 to 4 grams per day
during the second week, 4 to 5 grams per day during the third and fourth weeks, and 7 to 9 grams per day
until they are 60 days old. Neonates should be stimulated to eliminate after each feeding by massaging the
ventrum and perineal area with a cloth or swab moistened in warm water. At 4 to 6 weeks, parent- or hand-
raised young should be weaned by offering canned dog or cat food, minced beef, or freshly molted mealworms.
A slight weight loss may occur during weaning.
occasionally vertebrate prey. Although many of the natural food items are known, the nutritional contents of
invertebrates vary tremendously. This makes it very difficult to deduce nutrient requirements based on the wild
diet. Insectivorous mammals are traditionally fed diets that are 30% to 50% protein and 10% to 20% fat (dry
matter basis). Hedgehogs seem to require a higher level of dietary fiber than carnivores do. This may be
related to the large quantity of insect exoskeletons that make up the natural diet.
The bulk of the captive diet should consist of commercially prepared hedgehog food. Scientific studies
regarding hedgehog nutritional needs are lacking. However, commercial diets appear to be the most balanced
staple that a pet owner can offer. If hedgehog food is not used, premium food for less active cats should form
the basis of the diet. Ferret food is high in fat and is not recommended. With many individuals, food must be
rationed to prevent obesity. Depending on the animal’s weight and activity, 1 to 2 tablespoons of the main diet
is typically fed daily. Growing animals and reproductively active females may be fed the usual diet ad libitum,
and calcium-rich foods are recommended.
In addition to the main diet, approximately 1 to 2 teaspoons of varied moist foods (e.g., canned cat or dog
food, cooked meat or egg, or low-fat cottage cheese) and about one-half teaspoon of fruit (e.g., banana,
grape, apple, pear, berries) or vegetables (e.g., beans, cooked carrots, squash, peas, tomatoes, leafy greens)
should also be provided daily. Acceptable treats include mealworms, earthworms, waxworms, crickets, and cat
treats. These may be hidden in the bedding to promote foraging activity. Hedgehogs should not be fed raw
meat or eggs, which may harbor Salmonella. Milk, although relished by many hedgehogs, can cause diarrhea.
Nuts, seeds, and large items or hard foods such as raw carrots can become lodged in the roof of the mouth and
should be avoided. The need for vitamin or mineral supplementation, if any, is not known, but supplementation
does not appear to be necessary for animals fed a commercial diet. Moist or perishable foods should be offered
in the evenings. Hedgehogs may be slow to accept novel foods, and any diet changes must be made with
care. Fresh water should be available at all times. Most, but not all, hedgehogs can learn to drink from water
bottles.
Breeding: Although pet hedgehogs may become sexually mature at 2 months, females should be at least six
months of age before breeding. There is anecdotal evidence that female hedgehogs may undergo fusion of the
pelvic symphysis if not bred by 18 months of age. Dystocia may occur if an older female is bred for the first
time. Pregnancy is most easily determined by weighing the female every few days. A gain of 50 g or more
within 2 to 3 weeks of being placed with a male is suggestive of pregnancy. At 30 days, a general swelling of
the abdomen or mammary enlargement may be detected. Infanticide, usually followed by cannibalism of the
young, can occur. Novice hedgehog breeders should give the female strict privacy from other hedgehogs and
humans from about 5 days before delivery through 5 to 14 days after delivery. Females that are conditioned to
frequent handling are les likely to desert or kill their young in response to human contact. Male hedgehogs
must not be allowed near the neonates because cannibalism often results.
Neonatal Care: Normal pups (or “hoglets”) stay close to their dam and littermates when resting. In cases of
lactation failure or abandonment by the female, fostering of the pups to another dam with similarly aged pups
is usually successful. If a surrogate dam is unavailable, a milk replacer may be fed through a dropper, feeding
tube, or narrow-tipped syringe. Based on the composition of European hedgehog milk, a canine milk replacer
with added lactace (Lactaid, for example) seems to be the most logical formula. Hand-rearing of hedgehogs is
often associated with high mortality. Neonates should be fed as much as they will consume every 2 to 4 hours
for about three weeks. The ambient temperature should be maintained at 90 to 95 F (32-35 C) for the first few
weeks. Neonates should gain approximately 1 to 2 grams per day during the first week, 3 to 4 grams per day
during the second week, 4 to 5 grams per day during the third and fourth weeks, and 7 to 9 grams per day
until they are 60 days old. Neonates should be stimulated to eliminate after each feeding by massaging the
ventrum and perineal area with a cloth or swab moistened in warm water. At 4 to 6 weeks, parent- or hand-
raised young should be weaned by offering canned dog or cat food, minced beef, or freshly molted mealworms.
A slight weight loss may occur during weaning.
