General Husbandry of Caged Birds
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Housing Considerations
Pet birds may be caged or allowed to remain on perches while the owner is home to
supervise their activity. Birds should be confined to cages while their owners are away to avoid
accidental injury and other misfortune. Unsupervised pet birds allowed “the run of the house”
often get into trouble. Not only can they be terribly destructive to the home and its
furnishings, but all homes contain objects that can be harmful (directly or indirectly) to pet
birds. These include mirrors, windows, walls, house plants, electrical cords, and items
containing harmful chemicals.
Birds resting on open perches are usually content to remain there, and usually take
flight only when frightened by a sudden movement or loud noise. Unfortunately, these
“impromptu” flights are taken without a flight plan, and birds usually wind up crashing into
walls, doors, windows or mirrors because of their confusion and poor depth perception.
The major source of poisoning of pet birds is lead found in curtain (drapery) weights,
curtain pulls, leaded and stained glass, fishing sinkers and ammunition carelessly discarded in
ashtrays or dropped on the floor, costume jewelry, and in the lead wrapping around the top of
wine bottles, to name the most common sources. Most caged birds seem to have an affinity
for this soft metal and love to chew on it. Poisoning results from eating even a small amount
of lead. Lead poisoning can be successfully treated if diagnosed early enough.
Caged birds allowed unrestricted freedom in the home may eat house plants or chew on
electrical cords, resulting in illness and injury. Some unsupervised pet birds chew on macramé,
carpet and other similar fabrics and often swallow these materials, resulting in crop and
intestinal impactions. Free-flying birds are also more vulnerable to injury from ceiling fans, hot
stoves, and attack by pet dogs, cats and ferrets sharing the same household. It is wise not to
underestimate the aggressiveness of our 4-legged friends, and to restrict contact between
them and pet birds as much as possible.
Birds allowed unrestricted freedom and flight within the home may escape through
open doors and windows. Most bird owners have the mistaken notion that their bird would
never fly away and leave them. Unfortunately, birds that have escaped the owner’s home easily
become disoriented when outdoors. This confusion makes return or capture of the escaped
bird very unlikely.
The location of the cage and/or perch in the home is important. Some birds thrive in
areas of heavy traffic, where they receive lots of attention and are part of all the “goings on.”
Others seem to prefer more privacy and solitude. A pet bird should never be kept in the
kitchen. In addition to the obvious gas fumes and occasional smoke from cooking food, there
is another, much more dangerous, threat to birds in the kitchen. Super-heated Teflon and
related brand-name non-stick pan coatings emit fumes that are deadly to all birds. This
“accident” happens most often when someone inadvertently leaves a pan, coated with a non-
stick surface, on a lighted gas or electric range burner. The pan becomes hot and the non-
stick coating overheats, emitting toxic fumes. Birds that inhale these fumes die quickly.
There are several other considerations when allowing birds unrestricted freedom and
flight within the home. Birds flying about may end up in the toilet bowl or in an uncovered pot
or pan cooking on the stove. Free-flying birds tend to assume a more dominant posture in
their relationship with people, and often become intolerably aggressive.
Environmental Recommendations
Cage Size: The recommended bare minimum for a bird is a cage where the bird can sit on its
main perch and not have its wings, when fully extended; touch any of the cage sides. The key
phrase here is “bigger is better.” More birds means more room required.
Cage Material: First make sure that the spacing between bars on the cage allows no possibility
of the birds head slipping through. Use cages that do not contain lead (remember many older
cages may have this in paint) or zinc (galvanized wire is source). Avoid cages with rough
surfaces, loose pieces, wood, or flaking paint. Make sure the cage can be securely shut without
unintentional opening or opening by the bird (yes, they can do this).
Cage Location: Do not house in or near the kitchen for several reasons. Birds are very
susceptible to Teflon toxicity—an ingredient of most non-stick cooking pans. There are also a
lot of other chemicals which are aerosolized or birds can be exposed to in the kitchen. Birds
respiratory systems are more efficient then our own, so they are hurt much more easily by
fumes. Smoke inhalation can be another concern. Do not burn incense, candles, cigars, pipes,
or even cigarettes near birds. These can lead to respiratory, skin, and feather-picking
problems. House in areas where the bird can go to sleep at night at reasonable hours (see
below), and not be disturbed by light or noise. Be very careful housing in rooms where there is
immediate access to the out doors to prevent rapid temperature changes or escapes. Keep in
an area/location where there is no possibility of interaction or stress from other pets or small
children. DO house in an area that will allow the bird the correct amount of interaction with the
rest of its flock (YOU) if it is a single bird.
Temperature: Birds can handle a wide range of temperatures. They do not do well with major
changes or drafts (both warm and cold). The general recommendations are from what is
comfortable to the owner in a long-sleeved t-shirt to 100F. Make sure not to leave exposed to
direct sunlight without areas of shade (including through windows), to have water available at
all times, and to cover the cage at night in cooler temperatures. Avoid setting up directly in
front of ducts and swamp coolers. Sick birds requirements differ, see your veterinarian.
Cage Substrate: Do not use sandpaper sheets, any wood chips, black walnut, or commercial
prepared pellets in the cage bottom, even under a grate. Use only newspaper. This minimizes
toxin contamination and allows observation of fecal material for abnormalities.
To Cover or Not?? If housed in a dark area at night and the room stays above 70F, then
covering is at the owner’s discretion. Cover if the cage is by windows where lights can shine
through at night, startling the bird.
A benefit to covering your bird’s cage at night is that it provides a regular period of privacy not
usually allowed during the day. Further, it tends to keep the bird quiet in the early morning
when it would otherwise become active and vocal. If you now cover your bird’s cage at night,
continue to do so. If you have not done so in the past and find that your bird panics or acts
agitated with a cover over its cage, do not continue covering the cage.
Toys: (In addition to avoiding items made of the above “to avoid” materials) Avoid any string or
wire toys that can be wrapped around heads, toes, legs, or wings. If a toy can be easily
destroyed, be careful about what can happen with those component parts. When in doubt,
contact our office about particular toys.
Perches: We recommend using natural wood perches (see our poisonous plant handout for
recommendations of species – back page on the bottom). Avoid the pressed wood perches,
plastic perches, and sandpaper perch covers. Perches should be big enough around that the
feet cannot meet, but not so big that they stand flat-footed or fall off. Place so they do not
defecate onto other perches or into food/water containers.
Bathing: Most species benefit from a daily bath. For larger, hand-tamed birds, this is best
accomplished by taking them into the shower with you. They should get soaked, but it should
not be a negative experience for them. Introduce them to it slowly, letting them see that you
enjoy it. The temperature of the water should be what would be good for a small child. Do not
take from a warm bathroom to a cooler area until mostly dry. Do not bathe right before
putting them to bed. Most birds dry off well using a blow-dryer, but make sure it does not
scare them and keep only on cool air, not hot or warm. For smaller birds, there are bath
containers that can be attached to the cage door. Less desirable options include spray bottles
and shallow bowls in cage bottom. Many birds will either not use or dislike these.
Mite Guards: DO NOT USE THESE. BIRDS RARELY GET MITES, AND THE TYPE OF MITES THEY
DO GET TO NOT RESPOND TO THESE. THEY ARE ALSO EXTREMELY TOXIC AND CAN KILL
YOUR BIRDS!
Outside the Cage: Do not allow your bird out of its cage unsupervised. They are like an
unsupervised 3-4 year old child. They can get into a lot of trouble very quickly.
Interaction with Other Birds/Dogs/Cats/Small Children: In four words – DO NOT ALLOW IT. Of
course if birds are of the same species the risk is much less, but be careful nonetheless. We
get a lot of beaks and toes ripped off by other birds, and dead birds from dogs, cats, ferrets
and small children.
Other Environmental Dangers: Avoid ceiling fans, hot cooking oil, leg chains, tobacco products,
toxic plants (see handout), cedar, redwood, Christmas trees, pressure-treated wood cage
liners, dogs, cats, small children, lead and zinc.
Going Outside: This can be beneficial, but remember that some birds are terrified of open
spaces. Keep the bird in the cage. Remember that new dangers lurk outside, so always
supervise at all times. Make sure the wings are trimmed, too, to be on the safe side.
Reproduction: Do not encourage your birds to breed or lay eggs (providing a nest or nestbox)
unless you actively want this to occur. There are many complications that can occur in
reproductively active birds. For more information on how to set up correct breeding facilities,
contact a reputable breeder of that species.
Wing Trimming
To be safe, all caged birds should have their wing feathers trimmed to avoid flying
away, flying into windows, ceiling fans, valuable (and chewable) woodwork, to other animals,
etc. These need to be done when the ability to fly has returned. This time varies from bird to
bird. The decision to deny a caged bird free, unrestricted flight (as in the wild) is
subconsciously made by each bird owner at the time the bird is made a captive pet in the
home. Wing trimming merely makes this confinement safer for the bird.
Flight feathers of both wings should be trimmed. If the bird takes flight for any reason,
its descent to the floor is balanced and relatively controlled. Trimming the feathers on only one
wing results in a precarious and unbalanced descent to the floor, often injuring the bird.
Another disadvantage is that many birds with only one wing trimmed can fly as soon as 1-2
flight feathers have grown out on the trimmed side.
Some bird owners prefer not to trim the wings of their smaller caged birds (parakeets,
cockatiels) because their flying brings the owner great enjoyment. These small caged birds
have a smaller turning radius in flight than larger ones. Consequently, the smaller birds can
usually safely fly about most homes and apartments. One other advantage of not trimming the
wings of these small birds is that it allows them to escape when in danger and threatened by
any pet cats, ferrets or dogs in the home. However, generally it is best to keep your pet bird’s
wings trimmed at all times, except for the specific circumstances described above.
Trimming the wings is like trimming your fingernails. If performed properly, the bird will
experience no bleeding or discomfort. Trimming the wings makes taming the bird easier and
usually shortens the time for taming. Further, this procedure changes the bird’s appearance
very little. Have an experienced veterinarian or veterinary technician perform this task and
teach you how to properly do it.
Beak and Claw (Nail) Clipping
Caged birds live in a very “geometric” world, in contrast to their wild counterparts.
Most surfaces they perch on (perches, cage bars, etc.) are smooth and regular. Consequently,
the claws and beaks of pet birds tend to overgrow, and the surfaces of their beaks also tend to
become rough and irregular.
In a wild bird’s natural environment, this never arises because they are very active and
wear down their claws on tree bark, rocks and other abrasive surfaces. Most caged birds need
their claws trimmed periodically in spite of gimmicks often employed to keep them shortened.
Sandpaper perch covers, for example, do not prevent nail overgrowth but they do cause
irritation and excessive wear on the soles of the feet. These perch covers should not be used.
Beaks should be trimmed only for medical reasons to be assessed by your
veterinarian. Once a beak has to be trimmed, it will be necessary for the life of the bird.
An emery board, nail clippers or cautery instrument can be used to shorten the claws of
smaller caged birds. A rapidly rotating grinding stone is used to trim the claws and to shorten,
shape and smooth the beaks of larger birds. The results are very professional and satisfying.
You should not attempt to trim the beak of your bird. If you do attempt to trim the claws, you
must have something on hand with which to stop any bleeding. These clotting aids are called
styptics. Recommended styptics include Kwik-Stop (Animal Research Co.), silver nitrate sticks
and ferric subsulfate (Monsel’s solution).
If bleeding occurs while trimming the claws, do not panic. First, carefully restrain the
bird. Next, squeeze the toe just above the claw (tourniquet effect). Then apply the styptic to
the bleeding claw. Alternate the last 2 steps until the bleeding has stopped. Always seek
veterinary help when your bird is bleeding or has bled. Bleeding always represents an
emergency situation. Corn starch or flour is a common household item that can be applied to
bleeding claws or other wounds to help with blood clotting and to stop bleeding. The steps
outlined above are first-aid procedures only and are not a substitute for veterinary assistance.
Leg Band or Quarantine Ring Removal
Leg bands and quarantine rings are often applied to the legs of caged birds for
regulatory purposes or to help breeders to identify individual birds. Once the bird is sold, the
band or ring is unnecessary and should be removed. The information on them is mostly
useless for finding correct ownership of a lost bird. A better form of identification is to have
your bird microchipped. Small birds are not recommended to have this done, but it is a simple
process for most birds. Most limb injuries (broken or sprained legs, etc.) in caged birds involve
a banded leg. Band removal should not be attempted by a bird owner. Only an experienced
veterinarian or veterinary technician should perform this procedure.
Drafts
Contrary to popular opinion, drafts are not harmful to healthy pet birds. A draft is
really nothing more than a slight movement of air, usually accompanied by a mild temperature
drop. A bird’s feathers provide insulation against temperature extremes far in excess of what
a draft represents. Drafts are, therefore, usually inconsequential to pet birds.
The notable exception to this is the cool and sometimes cold air produced by air
conditioners. Most caged birds cannot tolerate the rapid temperature extremes produced by
thermostatically controlled air conditioners. For this reason, cages and perches should not be
positioned directly beside or beneath air conditioning, heating and ventilation outflows.
Further, sick birds should always be removed from drafty circumstances to prevent heat loss.
Covering the Cage at Night
Covering the bird’s cage at night is open to question. Because of the tremendous
insulating capacity of feathers, covering a bird’s cage at night may not be necessary to protect
the occupant from the cool drafts during the night when the thermostat is usually turned
down. The one exception to this would be on cold nights in colder climates.
Hygiene
Good hygiene is an important part of husbandry for caged birds because most are
confined to a relatively small living space. Consequently, droppings often accumulate on cage
parts and perches, and tend to contaminate food and water cups, resulting in bacterial
proliferation and mold growth.
Perches should be kept scrupulously clean at all times. Soap and water, cleansers and
sand paper may be used to clean them, if necessary. Cage-bottom coverings should be
changed daily. Cages should be given a thorough scrubbing and cleaning at least once a
month. Sanitizing products work best if the cage and perches are first given a thorough soap
and water scrubbing to remove all of the major contamination. Diluted chlorine bleach can be
used if thoroughly rinsed off afterwards. Use ½ cup bleach to 1 gallon of water.
Food and water containers should be thoroughly cleaned once or twice daily before they
are refilled. Bottle brushes work best for cleaning water tubes and bottles. Water tubes and
water bottles with a ball valve at the drinking end (water bottles for rodents) are increasing in
popularity. They greatly reduce the possibility of contamination of the drinking water with
droppings, uneaten food and saliva, all of which contribute to massive bacterial proliferation
within the water and its container. The corners of food and water containers are the most
common areas for bacterial buildup. Therefore, concentrate on those trouble spots while
cleaning these containers.
Several sets of food and water cups should be maintained and used interchangeably.
One set not in use can be soaking in disinfectant solution. When possible, use a dishwasher
for the final cleaning of these food and water containers because their extremely hot
temperatures aid disinfection.
Rigid standards of hygiene must be maintained at all times. Disease-causing bacteria
grow freely in most water containers. Small numbers of these bacteria from food, saliva or
droppings can quickly multiply into millions of organisms in a water container, yet the water
appears normal to you. Allow the water tap to run for about 3 minutes before filling the water
container. Bottled water dispensers should be allowed to run for about 5 seconds before filling
the drinking container. These bacteria do not affect most people but can have devastating
consequences for caged birds if allowed to multiply.
Adult Psittacine and Passerine Diets
Once we thought that seeds were all the pet bird required dietary-wise to survive. And
they did survive, but they did not thrive. Then we thought some vitamins and minerals, a
cuttlebone, and grit would put us over the edge. More recently ideas to incorporate pellets (like
cat or dog food, containing all the necessary requirements) and “people food” have been
advocated. WE DO NOT KNOW WHAT THE NUTRITIONAL REQUREMENTS ARE FOR ANY PET
BIRD SPECIES! There are a lot of people out there that think they know, but do not. What
birds need is what they eat naturally in the wild. A vast majority of “diseases” we see in pet
birds are due to nutritional problems, either directly or indirectly! Remember, you need to be a
parent to your bird, not a grandparent. Like kids, when offered the chance to eat what they
want, they will do so. Likewise, trying new things takes time. REMEMBER SICK BIRDS,
BREEDING BIRDS, AND BABY BIRDS HAVE VERY DIFFERENT REQUIREMENTS TO BE
RECOMMENDED BY YOUR VETERINARIAN. The following are our current recommendations for
adult diets, with slight deviation for certain species as mentioned.
PELLETS (60%): These should be the staple portion of the diet. Why? Because they contain
all the nutrients in each bite, so selective eating does not occur. However, we do not feel
pellets are the be all, end all. Saying that, the best thing to do is to have several types of
pellets offered in the cage, as each differs in nutrient percentages and ingredients. The brand
we recommend is Harrison’s Bird Diets, which are a very high quality certified organic food. For
small birds, pellets should be left in the cage all day since they are normally repeat feeders
throughout the day. For larger birds, we recommend offering the pellets and seeds for several
hours in the morning. Store in the freezer.
SEEDS/NUTS (10%): These should be a treat, rather than a staple. Seeds and nuts are high
in fat, while low in vitamins and minerals. A protein level of 10-14% is required by most adult
psittacines, which seeds usually meet, but they are low in specific amino acids. Dietary fiber
does not seem to be of great concern in psittacines or passerines. Of concern is the high fat in
sunflower seeds (though a good source of lysine, an essential amino acid), peanuts, pumpkin
seeds, safflower seeds, niger, rapeseed, and nuts. Think of each one of these as feeding a Big
Mac to your child. If seeds are to be fed, focus more on the smaller seeds to make up the
majority of the seed diet; like canary seed, millet (only white, avoid red), oat groats, and rye for
the small psittacines and passerines. These are still deficient nutritionally, but better than
those above are. Obviously, the size of seed should equate to the size of the bird. Large
Macaws, such as the Hyacinth, and Palm Cockatoos actually require high fat nuts in their diet.
Please ask your veterinarian for their personal recommendations for your Macaw. Seeds and
nuts should be offered as a small portion with the pellets, although in Canaries, Finches and
Parakeets (Budgerigars), seeds will be a higher percentage of the total diet (30%: 60%: 10%).
Mix with uncooked pasta and dried vegetables and fruits. Store in the freezer. If on
exclusively a seed diet, we strongly recommend trying to get on pellets (See the “Seed Junkie”
handout), but if the bird refuses to convert, the recommended volumes to feed (of appropriate
type/size seed) are 6 teaspoons of new seed/day for Parakeets and 3 teaspoons of new
seed/day for Canaries and Finches. “Special” seed mixes for breeding and laying are usually not
any different than the normal seed mixtures nutritionally. Studies in Finches and Budgerigars
have shown the same energy requirements for laying and non-laying birds. Once babies are
produced, it seems that the male often has the increased energy requirements, as he feeds
himself, the hen, and the chicks.
PEOPLE FOOD (30%): So what comprises people food? Our rules are: 1) No avocado or
rhubarb, 2) nothing we ourselves probably should not have (high fat, high sugar, high salt,
caffeine, alcohol, chocolate – the last 3 because animals lack the enzymes to break them down),
3) be careful with dairy products (try low fat cottage cheese first – some are lactose intolerant),
4) offer the proportions as currently recommended for people (lots of fruits, vegetables,
pastas/grains, and cereals; moderate amounts of meat, fish and dairy). Sometimes the best
things are those in combination, like a small piece of lasagna or chili. Birds do not necessarily
need bland things; they often love spicy food. 5) NEVER MICROWAVE FOOD FOR ANY
ANIMAL! 6) Food should not be left out longer than 2 hours, especially meat, fish, and dairy.
This food category is recommended as the evening meal for the big birds and a supplement for
the smaller birds (cut into small pieces).
WATER: Very important, offer this in its natural form. Do not add vitamins, minerals or
medications to the water unless specifically directed by your veterinarian. It makes it taste
funny, usually inactivates what is added, and the bird does not drink enough water. Many birds
get their water from metabolizing (or breaking down) their food, but water containers should
still be full and be changed twice daily. ALWAYS USED BOTTLED WATER!
GRIT, CUTTLEBONES, MINERAL BLOCKS, VITAMINS, MINERALS: GRIT IS NECESSARY ONLY
FOR DOVES, THOUGH IT CAN BE OFFERED TO CANARIES AND FINCEHES. NO OTHERS! At
this time, we recommend every bird should have a cuttlebone. They will use it if they
want/need it. Mineral blocks, vitamins, and mineral supplements are harmful unless
recommended by your veterinarian.
All of this said, here are some other hints. Each bird has different tastes, like people. Again,
the need for variety cannot be stressed enough. It takes more work, but would you want the
same frozen dinner, nutritionally fortified, every night? These are your children, treat them as
such. Remember that too rapid change to a new diet usually does not go over well.
Species considerations:
* African Greys tend to have low calcium problems. Supplement with a cuttlebone, low fat
cottage cheese, and/or Cherry or Fruit Flavor Tums ® sprinkled on favorite fruits and
vegetables.
* Finches, Canaries, and Parakeets (Budgerigars) tend to not convert to pellets easily and eat
a higher seed diet. White millet spray is an enjoyed treat. Likewise feed some people food, but
not much.
* Parakeets (Budgerigars) have problems with low iodine and can develop goiter.
* Toucans/Mynahs require low iron diets.
* All birds, but especially Amazons and Parakeets (Budgerigars) suffer from obesity from too
much fat and too little activity.
Disease: How to Recognize It and What to Do
Most disease in caged birds is directly or indirectly related to malnutrition and stress.
Malnutrition most often stems from what the bird eats, rather than how much it eats. Most
caged birds are offered enough food, but they do not receive enough of the proper foods and
in the proper proportions. Stress results from any condition that compromises a bird’s state
of well-being. Examples include poor husbandry, inadequate diet, rapid temperature change,
and trauma.
All owners of caged birds must understand that birds tend to “hide” signs of illness.
Birds can compensate for serious internal disease in such a way that they appear healthy
externally. It is theorized that evolution has “taught” birds to hide signs of illness to avoid
being harassed and possibly killed by other birds in the same flock.
Because of this disease-masking tendency, by the time a bird owner recognizes illness
in a pet bird, the bird may have been sick for 1-2 weeks. Therefore, one cannot afford to take
a “wait and see” approach and hope the bird improves. Be observant and act promptly. Learn
to look for subtle signs of illness, and take special note of changes in the routine and habits of
your pet bird. Seek veterinary assistance promptly if you suspect illness.
Following is a list of signs of illness easily recognizable by the concerned bird owner.
Alone or in combination, they signify potential illness in your bird.
Signs of Illness
* Discharge from the eyes
* Change in clarity or color of the eyes
* Closing of the eyes
* Swelling around the eyes
* Discharge from the nostrils
* Obstructed nostrils
* Soiling feathers on head or around nostrils
* Sneezing
* Inability to manipulate food within the mouth
* Reduced appetite or not eating at all
* Fluffed-up feathers
* Inactivity
* Droopy wings
* Decreased preening and feather maintenance
* Break in the bird’s routine
* Changed or no vocalization (may be serious)
* Weight loss
* Equilibrium problems (very serious!)
* Inability to perch (bird on cage bottom)
* Limping or not bearing weight on one leg
* Swollen feet or joints
* Change in quality or quantity of droppings
* Open-mouthed breathing when at rest (very serious!)
* Tail pumping (rhythmic back and forth motion of the tail when at rest)
* Lumps or masses anywhere on the body
* Bleeding (always an emergency situation, regardless of the origin)
If you suspect illness in your bird, do not delay in making an appointment with your
veterinarian. Either transport your bird to the doctor’s office within its cage or use some other
suitable container (smaller cage, pet carrier, box). Never visit the veterinarian with your bird
perched on your shoulder. This method does not provide enough protection for your pet.
Whatever container you choose should be covered to help minimize the stress to your sick bird
during its visit. If you take your bird to the veterinarian in its own cage, do not clean it first.
The material you discard could represent valuable information to the veterinarian.
After a sick bird has been initially treated by a veterinarian, home care is very important.
Sick birds must be encouraged to eat and must be kept warm. Illness can cause significant
weight loss in a matter of days, especially if the bird stops eating. If this happens, the patient
must be hospitalized. However, even a sick bird with a “healthy appetite” can lose substantial
weight because of the energy drain caused by the illness.
As a general rule of thumb, any caged bird that appears ill to its owner is seriously ill. One
day of illness for a bird is roughly equivalent to 7 days of illness for a person. The tendency for
pet bird owners in this situation is to first seek advice from pet stores and there purchase
antibiotics and other medication for their sick pet bird. With very few exceptions, these non-
prescribed products are worthless. They allow the sick bird to become even sicker, and greatly
compromise the results of diagnostic tests that the veterinarian may require to properly
diagnose and treat the patient. Contact your veterinarian at the slightest sign of illness in your
bird.
Supplemental heat (space heater, heated room, heating pad under the cage bottom or
wrapped around the cage, heat lamp) is vital for a sick bird. It is especially necessary if the bird’
s feathers are fluffed up. Provide just enough heat so that the feather posture appears
normal. Overheating the patient must be avoided at all costs. Heat-stressed birds pant, hold
their wings away from the body, depress their feathers close to the body, and appear anxious
and agitated. Heat stroke and death can result if the bird continues to be overheated. The
environmental temperature should be kept at 80-95 degrees Fahrenheit for sick birds. The
patient’s cage should be covered (top, back and sides) during its convalescence.
If a bird refuses to crack seeds or eat other foods that require a great deal of work, offer
hulled or sprouted seeds or other “easy” foods, such as warm cereal, cooked rice, cooked
pasta, vegetables, applesauce and other fruit sauces, and peanut butter. Remember, birds
that refuse to eat must be hospitalized. Few people can successfully force-feed a sick bird at
home.
Droppings Can Reflect Illness
A bird’s droppings reflect its state of health. Therefore, it is a good idea to pay close
attention to them. A bird’s digestive, urinary and reproductive tracts empty into a common
receptacle called the cloaca and the products from them mare expelled through the vent, which
is the opening at the bird’s “south end.”
A normal dropping may contain excretory products from the intestinal tract, urinary tract,
or both. The fecal (stool) portion of the dropping should be green or brown. The color is
influenced by the bird’s diet. Normal droppings are formed in a coil, reflecting the size and
diameter of the intestine. Along with the fecal portion is a variable amount of uric acid or urate
(“whitewash”) and urine (“water”). The urates are usually in a blob or mixed in with the feces
and should be white or beige.
The urine portion soaks the papers on the cage bottom for a variable distance beyond the
perimeter of the dropping. It is important to regularly observe the amount of urine being
excreted in the droppings. For this reason, such material as crushed corn cobs or walnut
shells should not be used on the cage bottom. It is impossible to evaluate each dropping when
these materials cover the cage bottom. They also tend to promote rapid growth of disease-
causing fungi on the cage bottom, especially when wet with urine or water. Newspapers or
paper towels are preferable.
Smaller caged birds (finches, canaries, parakeets) tend to have an individual blob of fecal
material with an accompanying amount of urate. The amount of urine excreted is usually quite
small.
A bird has diarrhea when the fecal portion of the dropping lacks form (“pea soup”).
Diarrhea is not very common in birds. A dropping with a normal fecal portion but a large
amount of urine around it represents a watery dropping (polyuria), not diarrhea! All diarrheic
droppings appear loose, but not all loose or watery droppings constitute diarrhea. This is a
very important distinction. Polyuric droppings may indicate disease (diabetes or kidney
disease), but more often they result from increased water consumption or consumption of
large amounts of fleshy fruits and vegetables.
The color, consistency and amount of each component of the droppings of normal caged
birds frequently change, depending on the type of food consumed, amount of stress
experienced, mood changes, and other factors. Abnormal droppings typically remain abnormal
in appearance during the entire course of a bird’s illness.