Chinchilla Care
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The chinchilla is a rodent which is closely related to the guinea pig and
porcupine. The pet chinchilla’s wild counterpart inhabits the Andes Mountain
areas of Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina. In the wild state, they live at high
altitudes in rocky, barren mountainous regions. They have been bred in
captivity since 1923 primarily for their pelts. Some chinchillas who were
fortunate enough to have substandard furs were sold as pets or research
animals. Today chinchillas are raised for both purposes: pets and pelts.
Chinchilla laniger is the main species bred today. They tend to be fairly clean,
odorless, and friendly pets but usually are shy and easily frightened. They do
not make very good pets for young children, since they tend to be high-strung
and hyperactive (both the child and the pet). The fur is extremely soft and
beautiful bluish grey in color, thus leading to their popularity in the pelt
industry. Current color mutations include white, silver, beige, and black.
Diet
Commercial chinchilla pellets are available, but they are not available through all
pet shops and feed stores. When the chinchilla variety is not in stock, a
standard rabbit or guinea pig pellet can be fed in its place. Chinchillas tend to
eat with their hands and often throw out a lot of pellets, thus causing wastage.
Timothy, or other grass hay, should be fed to chinchillas in addition to their
pellets. Alfalfa hay is not recommended due to its high calcium content relative
to phosphorus. Hay is a beneficial supplement to the diet for nutritional and
psychological reasons. Grass hay adds fiber to the diet while serving as an
item for the pet to chew on other than its fur. Hay is also important for healthy,
even teeth. Any hay fed should be free from mold and vermin contamination.
Hay should be available at all times.
Dried fruit and nuts are excellent treats for pet chinchillas. Raisins tend to be a
favorite treat among these animals. Fresh carrots and green vegetables can
also be provided but in moderation. Remember, these supplements to the diet
should constitute less than 10% of food intake.
Chinchillas can drink water from valve waterers or sipper-type bottles. Very
careful sanitation of the water supply is necessary, since contaminated water
may be a contributing factor in disease outbreaks.
Infectious Diseases
Enteritis (Intestinal Infection)
One of the most common diseases of chinchillas is enteritis, which is an infection
of the digestive tract. In many cases, the exact cause may not be determined.
Bacterial, viral and protozoal agents have all been associated with the
syndrome. A few specific agents include Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Salmonella
typhimurium, E. cola and Giardia. Poor husbandry and management is often
associated with an outbreak. Clinical signs are variable, ranging from
depression to death. The chinchilla often exhibits diarrhea, but not
consistently. Other signs of illness include loss of appetite, partial paralysis,
and a painful abdomen. Examination of the feces through fecal flotations, direct
smears, and cultures may reveal the causative agent. Veterinary care and
treatment must be sought at the first sign of illness. Treatment of enteritis
involves appropriate antibiotic therapy and supportive care. This disease is
often fatal despite aggressive therapy due to the severity of the illness.
Pneumonia (Respiratory Infection)
Pneumonia is another common condition observed in chinchillas which is caused
by a number of disease agents. Bordetella, Pasteurella, Pseudomonas and E.
coli are a few of the bacterial species commonly associated with the syndrome.
Damp, drafty housing often predisposes the pet to this condition. Clinical signs
include discharge from the eyes and nose, loss of appetite, and rough hair
coat. Death may result from this respiratory disease. Treatment involves
supportive care and antibiotics.
Ringworm
Trichophyton mentagrophytes is the typical agent in chinchillas with ringworm.
It causes hair loss and scabby red lesions on the nose, feet, and around the
eyes. This is a very serious problem with fur ranchers due to the damage to
the chinchilla’s hair coat. Treatment involves the use of griseofulvin as
prescribed by your veterinarian.
Non-Infectious Diseases
Malocclusion/Slobbers
This condition is characterized by drooling of saliva onto the fur under the chin.
Other signs include inappetence, sores in the mouth, and loss of fur under the
chin. The underlying cause is overgrowth of the molars (cheek teeth). Mineral
imbalances as well as poor dental alignment lead to overgrown and
maloccluded teeth. Temporary treatment involves clipping the affected teeth
and proper mineral supplementation. Providing wood or mineral blocks for the
chinchilla to chew may aid in prevention, but many cases have a genetic basis.
Fur Slip
Chinchillas often lose patches of fur when roughly handled. Another common
cause is fighting among the chinchillas. This condition does not injure the pet
but ruins the pelts of animals raised for fur.
Barbering/Fur Chewing
Barbering is the condition where a chinchilla chews on its own or another’s fur
resulting in a rough, moth-eaten appearing coat. Some of the underlying
causes of this behavior include boredom, dirty fur, dietary imbalances and
hereditary factors. This condition is a serious problem in the pelt industry.
Providing the animals with chew toys as well as selective breeding often aid in
decreasing the incidence within a colony.
Heat Stroke
High temperatures and high humidity are not tolerated well by chinchillas. Most
problems occur in situations where the cage is placed in direct sunlight and
poorly ventilated. Affected animals will be lying on their sides and panting.
They also feel hot to the touch because of elevated body temperature. Animals
in high humidity will also exhibit unkempt, damp fur. Treatment involves misting
or bathing them in cold water or applying rubbing alcohol to their foot pads.
Veterinary assistance should be sought for further recommendations and
treatment.
Facts
• Average life span: 8-10 years, up to 18 years
• Environmental temperature range: 60-75 F
• Body temperature: 97-100 F
• Gestation: 111 days
• Litter size: 1-5 (range), with an average of 2
• Weaning age: 6-8 weeks
Handling
Chinchillas are not very difficult to handle and rarely bite. Be careful when
handling them, however, due to the risk of “fur slip.” “Fur slip” is the patchy
shedding of hair that occurs when the fur is grasped or roughly handled. To
avoid this condition, always grasp the base of the tail (close to the body) with
one hand, while supporting the body on your opposite forearm and against
your body. Chinchillas can also be held around the thorax as done with other
rodents. Although they rarely bite, they still are capable, if agitated enough. In
addition, and more likely, they may urinate when annoyed. As with any animal,
always be in control when holding or restraining your pet to avoid injuries to
either of you.
Housing
Chinchillas must be kept in an area that is well lit, adequately ventilated, and
cool and dry. They do not tolerate heat or humidity, and they thrive at lower
temperatures. The optimal temperature is 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Wire mesh cages are typically used for chinchillas, with or without a solid floor.
Glass aquariums or plastic can be used, but with extreme caution due to their
poor ventilation. If these containers are used, watch for the development of
scruffy fur as an indication of impending problems. Wooden cages should not
be used since chinchillas are noted gnawers. These animals tend to be very
active and acrobatic, thus requiring a lot of space. An ideal enclosure would
measure at least 6 feet X 6 feet X 3 foot, with a one foot square nest box.
Dust baths should be provided at least once or twice weekly, and daily or every
other day dust-bathing is encouraged. These must be large and deep enough
to allow the chinchillas to roll over in it. Finely powdered volcanic ash is used to
keep the fur clean and well groomed. Several brands of “chinchilla dust” are
marketed. A home-made alternative consists of 9 parts silver sand to 1 part of
Fuller’s earth. This bath should only be provided for a short time during the
day, otherwise there would be a perpetual dust cloud in the cage.
Chinchillas tend not to get along when housed together, with the female being
the more aggressive gender. Breeders and pelters commonly set up
polygamous colonies with one male having access to five or so females
maintained in separate cages. The male has a tunnel along the back of the
females’ cages which enables him to enter any cage at will. The females cannot
pass through the tunnel because they are fitted with light-weight collars that
are just a little wider than the cage opening.
Reproduction
Chinchillas will breed throughout the year, with the main breeding season being
between November and May. Estrous cycles vary from 30 to 50 days. Many
female chinchillas have irregular cycles.
The female chinchilla can be quite aggressive toward the male. For this reason,
males are given the opportunity to escape from the female’s cage. This is
accomplished by placing a collar around the female’s neck and having a small
exit hole that the male can climb through, but the female wearing a collar
cannot. Many breeders set up several female chinchillas in cages in a row with
a pathway located in back allowing free access to several females by the single
male (see the Housing section, above). This practice is known as harem
breeding. Up to 20% of all females may never breed, which often is due to
incompatibility with the male. In cases such as this, changing of the male may
raise the conception rate.
The gestation period is 111 days on the average, with a range of 105-115
days. There are no obvious signs of impending parturition (giving birth). Most
births, however, take place in the morning. Usually two babies are born, but
litter size varies between one and five.
© 2000-2006, Susan Brown, DVM. Used with Permission, All Rights Reserved
porcupine. The pet chinchilla’s wild counterpart inhabits the Andes Mountain
areas of Peru, Bolivia, Chile, and Argentina. In the wild state, they live at high
altitudes in rocky, barren mountainous regions. They have been bred in
captivity since 1923 primarily for their pelts. Some chinchillas who were
fortunate enough to have substandard furs were sold as pets or research
animals. Today chinchillas are raised for both purposes: pets and pelts.
Chinchilla laniger is the main species bred today. They tend to be fairly clean,
odorless, and friendly pets but usually are shy and easily frightened. They do
not make very good pets for young children, since they tend to be high-strung
and hyperactive (both the child and the pet). The fur is extremely soft and
beautiful bluish grey in color, thus leading to their popularity in the pelt
industry. Current color mutations include white, silver, beige, and black.
Diet
Commercial chinchilla pellets are available, but they are not available through all
pet shops and feed stores. When the chinchilla variety is not in stock, a
standard rabbit or guinea pig pellet can be fed in its place. Chinchillas tend to
eat with their hands and often throw out a lot of pellets, thus causing wastage.
Timothy, or other grass hay, should be fed to chinchillas in addition to their
pellets. Alfalfa hay is not recommended due to its high calcium content relative
to phosphorus. Hay is a beneficial supplement to the diet for nutritional and
psychological reasons. Grass hay adds fiber to the diet while serving as an
item for the pet to chew on other than its fur. Hay is also important for healthy,
even teeth. Any hay fed should be free from mold and vermin contamination.
Hay should be available at all times.
Dried fruit and nuts are excellent treats for pet chinchillas. Raisins tend to be a
favorite treat among these animals. Fresh carrots and green vegetables can
also be provided but in moderation. Remember, these supplements to the diet
should constitute less than 10% of food intake.
Chinchillas can drink water from valve waterers or sipper-type bottles. Very
careful sanitation of the water supply is necessary, since contaminated water
may be a contributing factor in disease outbreaks.
Infectious Diseases
Enteritis (Intestinal Infection)
One of the most common diseases of chinchillas is enteritis, which is an infection
of the digestive tract. In many cases, the exact cause may not be determined.
Bacterial, viral and protozoal agents have all been associated with the
syndrome. A few specific agents include Pseudomonas aeruginosa, Salmonella
typhimurium, E. cola and Giardia. Poor husbandry and management is often
associated with an outbreak. Clinical signs are variable, ranging from
depression to death. The chinchilla often exhibits diarrhea, but not
consistently. Other signs of illness include loss of appetite, partial paralysis,
and a painful abdomen. Examination of the feces through fecal flotations, direct
smears, and cultures may reveal the causative agent. Veterinary care and
treatment must be sought at the first sign of illness. Treatment of enteritis
involves appropriate antibiotic therapy and supportive care. This disease is
often fatal despite aggressive therapy due to the severity of the illness.
Pneumonia (Respiratory Infection)
Pneumonia is another common condition observed in chinchillas which is caused
by a number of disease agents. Bordetella, Pasteurella, Pseudomonas and E.
coli are a few of the bacterial species commonly associated with the syndrome.
Damp, drafty housing often predisposes the pet to this condition. Clinical signs
include discharge from the eyes and nose, loss of appetite, and rough hair
coat. Death may result from this respiratory disease. Treatment involves
supportive care and antibiotics.
Ringworm
Trichophyton mentagrophytes is the typical agent in chinchillas with ringworm.
It causes hair loss and scabby red lesions on the nose, feet, and around the
eyes. This is a very serious problem with fur ranchers due to the damage to
the chinchilla’s hair coat. Treatment involves the use of griseofulvin as
prescribed by your veterinarian.
Non-Infectious Diseases
Malocclusion/Slobbers
This condition is characterized by drooling of saliva onto the fur under the chin.
Other signs include inappetence, sores in the mouth, and loss of fur under the
chin. The underlying cause is overgrowth of the molars (cheek teeth). Mineral
imbalances as well as poor dental alignment lead to overgrown and
maloccluded teeth. Temporary treatment involves clipping the affected teeth
and proper mineral supplementation. Providing wood or mineral blocks for the
chinchilla to chew may aid in prevention, but many cases have a genetic basis.
Fur Slip
Chinchillas often lose patches of fur when roughly handled. Another common
cause is fighting among the chinchillas. This condition does not injure the pet
but ruins the pelts of animals raised for fur.
Barbering/Fur Chewing
Barbering is the condition where a chinchilla chews on its own or another’s fur
resulting in a rough, moth-eaten appearing coat. Some of the underlying
causes of this behavior include boredom, dirty fur, dietary imbalances and
hereditary factors. This condition is a serious problem in the pelt industry.
Providing the animals with chew toys as well as selective breeding often aid in
decreasing the incidence within a colony.
Heat Stroke
High temperatures and high humidity are not tolerated well by chinchillas. Most
problems occur in situations where the cage is placed in direct sunlight and
poorly ventilated. Affected animals will be lying on their sides and panting.
They also feel hot to the touch because of elevated body temperature. Animals
in high humidity will also exhibit unkempt, damp fur. Treatment involves misting
or bathing them in cold water or applying rubbing alcohol to their foot pads.
Veterinary assistance should be sought for further recommendations and
treatment.
Facts
• Average life span: 8-10 years, up to 18 years
• Environmental temperature range: 60-75 F
• Body temperature: 97-100 F
• Gestation: 111 days
• Litter size: 1-5 (range), with an average of 2
• Weaning age: 6-8 weeks
Handling
Chinchillas are not very difficult to handle and rarely bite. Be careful when
handling them, however, due to the risk of “fur slip.” “Fur slip” is the patchy
shedding of hair that occurs when the fur is grasped or roughly handled. To
avoid this condition, always grasp the base of the tail (close to the body) with
one hand, while supporting the body on your opposite forearm and against
your body. Chinchillas can also be held around the thorax as done with other
rodents. Although they rarely bite, they still are capable, if agitated enough. In
addition, and more likely, they may urinate when annoyed. As with any animal,
always be in control when holding or restraining your pet to avoid injuries to
either of you.
Housing
Chinchillas must be kept in an area that is well lit, adequately ventilated, and
cool and dry. They do not tolerate heat or humidity, and they thrive at lower
temperatures. The optimal temperature is 60-70 degrees Fahrenheit.
Wire mesh cages are typically used for chinchillas, with or without a solid floor.
Glass aquariums or plastic can be used, but with extreme caution due to their
poor ventilation. If these containers are used, watch for the development of
scruffy fur as an indication of impending problems. Wooden cages should not
be used since chinchillas are noted gnawers. These animals tend to be very
active and acrobatic, thus requiring a lot of space. An ideal enclosure would
measure at least 6 feet X 6 feet X 3 foot, with a one foot square nest box.
Dust baths should be provided at least once or twice weekly, and daily or every
other day dust-bathing is encouraged. These must be large and deep enough
to allow the chinchillas to roll over in it. Finely powdered volcanic ash is used to
keep the fur clean and well groomed. Several brands of “chinchilla dust” are
marketed. A home-made alternative consists of 9 parts silver sand to 1 part of
Fuller’s earth. This bath should only be provided for a short time during the
day, otherwise there would be a perpetual dust cloud in the cage.
Chinchillas tend not to get along when housed together, with the female being
the more aggressive gender. Breeders and pelters commonly set up
polygamous colonies with one male having access to five or so females
maintained in separate cages. The male has a tunnel along the back of the
females’ cages which enables him to enter any cage at will. The females cannot
pass through the tunnel because they are fitted with light-weight collars that
are just a little wider than the cage opening.
Reproduction
Chinchillas will breed throughout the year, with the main breeding season being
between November and May. Estrous cycles vary from 30 to 50 days. Many
female chinchillas have irregular cycles.
The female chinchilla can be quite aggressive toward the male. For this reason,
males are given the opportunity to escape from the female’s cage. This is
accomplished by placing a collar around the female’s neck and having a small
exit hole that the male can climb through, but the female wearing a collar
cannot. Many breeders set up several female chinchillas in cages in a row with
a pathway located in back allowing free access to several females by the single
male (see the Housing section, above). This practice is known as harem
breeding. Up to 20% of all females may never breed, which often is due to
incompatibility with the male. In cases such as this, changing of the male may
raise the conception rate.
The gestation period is 111 days on the average, with a range of 105-115
days. There are no obvious signs of impending parturition (giving birth). Most
births, however, take place in the morning. Usually two babies are born, but
litter size varies between one and five.
© 2000-2006, Susan Brown, DVM. Used with Permission, All Rights Reserved
